Day 6 - Tuesday, April 26
Today just feels like a lot of driving to nowhere. We do visit the Fatehpur Sikri which is listed as a ghost town for it was abandoned for unknown reasons.
The best thing about today was our lunch at one of those side-highway stops. Of course, our guide dragged us to another American-money-trap but at least our servers were kind. They could tell Jeff and I were interested in the food and they came by to describe the ingredients as well as bringing us out different sauces when they could tell we liked things spicy. The meal was super tasty but should have been cheap --some bread, 1 entree, 1 side and a soda and it cost us roughly $30 USD. I mean, had we dined in the US it should of cost us $12 max and dining in India it should have cost us a couple of dollars.
At one point I was hounded by tourists....Indian tourists that is. I like to think about my weird face showing up in all these family photos. They basically have a photo of me with everyone in a huge extended family. Aglaia with little girls, little boys, grandmas, sisters, aunts, uncles, friends, parents, the whole gang. Now one with my hat on. One with it off. Hair down, hair up. Glasses on, glasses off.
I should have charged them rupees. ;-)
Day 7, April 27
After a less than appetizing breakfast we head off for an adventure in Jaipur. We visit the Amber Fort which is found atop a big hill overlooking the land. We luck out and are able to secure a ride on an elephant up. Of course, partly into it you realize how much suffering this animal must be in --really hot and it's a steep climb--and it's not as fun anymore.
Jeff is experiencing some stomach issues and I think the rolling animal ride up isn't the best for him although we're both happy to have done it.
At the top the "driver" invites me to pet the elephant and tells me I can feed him a banana. What? Was I supposed to bring a banana? Anyway, a guard with a gun told me to move on and get away from the elephant --no touching he says. Too late, I got my pet in. Unfortunately, Jeff doesn't have a chance. I hear they do limit the number of trips up an elephant takes each day to give them time to rest and get out of the heat. Don't know if it's true but hope it is.
At the top where we get off the elephant it's pretty cool. The entrance opens up into this huge square. There is a band playing up top a couple of levels up and it's very earthy, arabic sounding. Sort of feels like an Indiana Jones moment. I can only imagine back in the 17th century when this place could/would have been in full swing for a party. The fortress itself is OK but it feels like we are here forever. I do like the Sheesh Mahal (Hall of Mirrors) and it would be neat to walk through and really get a look at everything if/when it wasn't hounded by tourists.
That afternoon Jeff is not feeling well. He decides to stay in while I head back out in search of a bazaar. I end up cramming into a motorized rickshaw with six others (!) as we zip over to a row of shops. It seems a bit like more of the same touristy places. C'mon, what do I have to do to be taken somewhere, anywhere authentic?
So I stroll with the others while they shop. I find some pretty scarves but the thread is coming out and the price being charged is outrageous (again). All I really want is to find a spice shop....which I do. Although, I'm so overwhelmed during the negotiation process that by the time I leave I have no idea how much I spent or what the U.S. equivalent might be. But, I feel good about the place --they actually gave me money back when they realized I gave them a larger bill than necessary.
Day 8, April 28
The following day Jeff is still not feeling well. Apparently, a number of folks aren't doing so hot. I can't say what it might be other than I suspect the breakfast at the hotel or maybe just India in general is catching up with people. By mid-day I'm also feeling that clenching stomach feeling. It's going to be a long ride back to Dehli.
The good news is we discover the joy of Imodium. I had heard of this product but didn't realize how quickly it really does stop diarrhea. I've always been a Pepto girl but realize now I need to carry Imodium with me when I travel. Certainly made the bus ride bearable for Jeff.
After a really long and miserable drive back to Delhi we stop for our "farewell dinner." This place sucked. The dinner was included in our tour package but I would have been happier to just be on our own. Besides a really crappy meal it didn't even come with a beverage. I mean, no water? Nothing? Stupid.
At the dinner table I am in full on bitch mode. Another younger girl also is complaining. She jokes that she will complain for me after I see that Jeff is unhappy about it (about me always complaining). I think he felt we were being too obvious. But I didn't care. Fuck our guide. I hope he did know how I felt.
Finally at the airport things take a nose dive. Keep in mind that we've spent the entire day in a motor coach traveling back to the city. It's now 8:30 PM. Our flight is scheduled to depart at 12:20 AM. Delayed. Delayed again. Delayed some more. Uh oh.
At this point we think it's just going to be cancelled. And since flights only leave really late at night we're thinking we might be trapped for an entire day at the airport.
I am pretty beat down at this point. Tired and ready to wrap up the trip we wander aimlessly through the airport. We have another late(r) dinner just to pass the time. Finally, Jeff has the idea to simply lay our bags down and go to sleep. I think I fall asleep instantly. UNTIL....
I wake up with the most horrible stomach pains. The bathroom is really, really far away. I try to run, hop, skip as quickly as I can without drawing too much attention and....relief. I make it in time to just well....it gets graphic from here, so let's just say it was a good time to be near a toilet. I still have some extra Imodium on me so I take it right there. On the pot.
Oh yeah.
I feel a bit like I'm dying and don't really want to leave the comfort of the bathroom but eventually decide I can't possibly eliminate another time and I head back to our gate. Only to see Jeff sitting there by his lonesome. Pretty much the entire plane has loaded at this point. Oops.
WFor better or worse we are in the very last seats in the back of the plane. I say "for better" ---this is one time that being near the bathroom could be a good thing. But, once on we continue to sit, and sit and sit. It seems they continue to load the plane more here and there. Finally another hour(s) so later we finally depart New Delhi around 6:30 AM. Yes, about 6 hours late. Of course, at that point almost every single person with a connection in JFK will miss it.
Hard to plan for that big of a delay. What's sad is that Jeff and I *almost* had booked a 5 PM flight out of JFK but decided instead to book a 2:30 flight out of LGA. So, not only did we miss our flight, we had to pay a fee to get on the next one and we still had to get ourselves to a different airport.
But, I'm getting ahead of myself.
The flight itself wasn't too bad. I had really horrible stomach cramping but nothing else. This made for some woozy, uncomfortable moments but at least no mad dashes to the bathroom. Thank you Imodium!
I watched Cat on a Hot Tin Roof ("Classic American" movie option per Air India). It was OK. I haven't read the play but I'm sure it was true to story. Felt very much like a live theater production rather than an actual movie.
Later I watched an Indian movie ("Modern Indian" selection). The movie actually took place in NYC but was all in Hindi. It was a romance and cheesy yes, I still really liked it. Ha.
When we got to JFK it was about an hour til our scheduled flight (out of LGA). Having been through this just a few months ago when we missed our connection after coming back from Iceland I was smarter now and called up the airline. Since I called prior to the flight departing we "only" had to pay a $50 fee to be booked on the next flight. Hey, better than having to book two new one way flights.
It took us awhile to figure out how to buy a pass on the van transfer to LGA which cost us major time. Luckily, we made it to LGA on time (although just barely, they were loading as we arrived at gate) and finally on our way back to Chicago.
Once there of course we still had a long and winding trip back to our apartment via public transportation. We were feeling especially beat and gross by this point. We figured it had been about 40+ hours since leaving Jaipur the previous day since we had had a shower and a normal sleep.
Ah, but once home, yes sweet home it felt good. Oh India, not my favorite trip but still worthwhile.
In the days following I spent a lot of time moaning about the experience. Now, a month later I'm telling everyone how wonderful it was. Partly, because it's just easier and partly because....it was still a worthwhile experience. I'm glad I went. I discovered some amazing food. Learned I'm not a tour-bus kind of girl and...who knows. Maybe one day I'll be back to visit Southern India. I think that could still be fun.
